Sewing thread is the main line material used to sew various garment materials, and has both practical and decorative functions. The quality of the sewing thread not only affects the sewing efficiency and processing cost, but also affects the appearance quality of the finished garment.
Sewing thread classification and characteristics
Sewing threads for clothing are generally classified into three categories: natural fiber sewing thread, synthetic fiber sewing thread and mixed sewing thread.
1. Natural fiber sewing thread
a. Cotton sewing thread: a sewing thread made of cotton fiber as a raw material through refining, sizing, waxing and other processes. Cotton sewing threads can be divided into no light (or soft), silk light and wax light.
The cotton sewing thread has high strength and good heat resistance, and is suitable for high-speed sewing and durable pressing, and is mainly used for sewing cotton fabric, leather and high-temperature ironing clothes. The disadvantage is that the elasticity and wear resistance are poor.
b. Silk thread: The filament thread or silk thread made of natural silk has excellent gloss, and its strength, elasticity and wear resistance are better than cotton thread. It is suitable for sewing all kinds of silk garments, high-grade woolen garments and fur. With leather clothing and so on.
2, synthetic fiber sewing thread
a, polyester sewing thread: This is the most widely used and most popular sewing thread, made of polyester filament or short fiber. Polyester sewing thread has the characteristics of high strength, good elasticity, wear resistance, low shrinkage rate and good chemical stability. It is mainly used for sewing cowboy, sportswear, leather products, wool and military uniforms. It should be noted here that the polyester suture has a low melting point, is easy to melt at high speed sewing, and occludes the needle eye, causing the suture to break, so it is necessary to select a suitable needle.
b. Nylon sewing thread: The nylon sewing thread is made of pure nylon multifilament. It is divided into three types: long filament, short fiber and elastic deformation. The main variety is nylon filament. The utility model has the advantages of large elongation and good elasticity, and the tensile length at the moment of breaking is three times higher than that of the cotton thread of the same specification, and thus is suitable for sewing chemical fiber, woolen cloth, leather and elastic clothing. The biggest advantage of nylon sewing thread is transparency. Because this line is transparent and has good color, it reduces the difficulty of sewing wiring and has broad development prospects. However, it is limited to the fact that the rigidity of the transparent wire on the market is too large, the strength is too low, the stitches are easy to float on the surface of the fabric, and the high temperature is not tolerated, and the seam speed cannot be too high. At present, such lines are mainly used as parts that are not easily stressed, such as decals and edging.
c. Weilun sewing thread: made of vinylon fiber, its strength is high, and the stitch is stable. It is mainly used for sewing thick canvas, furniture cloth and labor insurance products.
d. Acrylic sewing thread: It is made of acrylic fiber and is mainly used as decorative thread and embroidery thread. The yarn has low twist and bright dyeing.
3, mixed sewing thread
a. Polyester/cotton sewing thread: It is made of 65% polyester and 35% cotton blended, which has the advantages of both polyester and cotton. Polyester/cotton sewing thread can not only meet the requirements of strength, wear resistance and shrinkage rate, but also overcome the defects of polyester heat-resistant, adapt to high-speed sewing, and can be used in all kinds of clothing such as cotton, polyester/cotton.
b. Core sewing thread: a sewing thread made of filaments and coated with natural fibers. The strength of the core sewing thread depends on the core wire, while the wear resistance and heat resistance depend on the outer yarn. Therefore, the core sewing thread is suitable for high-speed sewing and clothing requiring a high sewing speed.
The principle that should be followed when using sewing thread
A comprehensive indicator for assessing the quality of sewing threads is seamability.
The seamability indicates the ability of the sewing thread to smoothly form a good stitch under specified conditions and maintain a certain mechanical property in the stitch. The sewing thread also needs to be applied correctly while ensuring the seamability. To do this, the following principles should be followed:
(1) Compatible with fabric characteristics
The sewing thread is the same or similar to the material of the fabric, so as to ensure the uniformity of shrinkage, heat resistance, wear resistance and durability, and avoid the shrinkage of the appearance caused by the difference between the thread and the fabric.
(2) consistent with the type of clothing
For special-purpose garments, sewing threads with special functions should be considered. For elastic garments, elastic sewing threads are required, and fire-fighting suits require sewing threads that are heat-resistant, flame-retardant and waterproof.
(3) Coordination with the shape of the stitch
The stitches used in different parts of the garment are different, and the sewing thread should also be changed with it. For example, the overlocked thread or the deformed line should be used for the overlock. The double-strand stitch should be selected with a large extension line. The quilting and shoulder stitches should be firm. And the buttonhole line needs to be wear-resistant.
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