The "Rolls Royce in the fabric was originally based on these six major housekeeping techniques.

A row of rows and columns of shelves, which are covered with fabric samples of different specifications and different colors. It is said that there are nearly 100,000 models, which occupy almost the entire floor of the second floor of Jiangsu Lianfa Technology Center Building. People will be shocked by this scale, which is arguably the largest fabric “library” among Chinese textile companies. Among them, there is a light and thin fabric that is most eye-catching: bright colors, soft luster, soft and smooth to touch, and comfortable elasticity, no wrinkles and no wrinkles. Yu Yongjun, general manager of Lianfa, told reporters: "This is the highest-end fabric developed by Lianfa: pure cotton, 360S, and natural fiber without chemical fiber elastic fiber." Almost all technical indicators have surpassed the top fabric standards in Italy. It is the well-deserved world's highest-end fabric, which is called "Rolls Royce" in the fabric. Behind this product is Jiangsu Lianfa and Donghua University, after eight years of unremitting efforts, and finally broke through the "key technology of pure cotton ultra-fine high-density elastic yarn-dyed fabrics" and achieved industrialization. The result was thus awarded the “First Prize of Science and Technology” of the China Textile Industry Federation in 2015.

project name:

Research and development and keyization of key technologies for cotton ultra-fine high-density elastic yarn-dyed fabrics

Main completion unit:

Jiangsu Lianfa Textile Co., Ltd., Donghua University

Main completion person:

Li Yuling, Tang Wenjun, Yao Jinlong, He Yuxin, Wu Yuping, Cheng Longzhen, Xiang Zhonglin, Zhang Ruiyun, Xue Qinglong, Dong Xia, Liu Qianli, Yang Zhenghua, Xue Wenliang, Jiang Longyu, Qian Xiaohong

From "sadness" to production, study and research

The 360S is already a super-high branch, and the industry knows that this has touched the limits of spinning. But why is Lianfa still obsessively exploring? This is also to say from the "sadness" of the army. For many years, the company was responsible for the sales work of Lianfa. At the exhibition, he often communicated with customers. The high-end brand customers opened their mouths to talk about the world's top fabrics. They believed that Chinese manufacturing can only produce general road goods, $10/ Fabrics above the meter should go to Europe. This makes the army very "sad", there is no fabric product that represents the highest level of manufacturing, the waist is not hard, and the trust of others is not high. Every time I see a customer, the customer always asks if there is a new product , and whether there is a higher-end product. "We must come up with something that is internationally advanced and representative of China." Since then, Lianfa has had the idea of ​​being a top-level product. Such fabrics must meet the needs of the highest-end consumer. The highest technical level.

Since 2007, Lianfa has jointly initiated the process of production, education and research with Donghua University. Yarn-dyed fabrics are a symbol of the high-grade textile products. However, China's high-grade yarn-dyed fabrics account for only 1% of global consumption. With the upgrade of consumption, light and comfortable become the development trend of high-grade fabrics. To be thin and light, you need high support and high density; to be comfortable, you must have elasticity. The high-grade elastic fabrics on the market use core-spun yarn instead of pure cotton, and the super-fine yarn is difficult to weave. How to make high yarn count, how to make cotton also flexible? This is a technical bottleneck that must be broken through in research and development.

“Single yarn over 300S is already the limit of spinning. In fact, the latter application still needs to be plied. We have adjusted the process and directly pledged during spinning.” The process adjustment mentioned by Professor Li Yuling of Donghua University is aimed at high The weak yarn with low efficiency and poor stability of the yarn is made by combining the siro-composite spinning technology, and the spinning and the joints are combined into one to produce the 360S/2 siro spinning yarn.

How to make the cotton yarn itself flexible? Experts think of the principle of the spring, to make the yarn have a certain rigidity, but also to gather some energy, you can achieve the elasticity of the yarn. In the research and development, the use of stress accumulation and co-directional technology, using the siro-spinning double-strand co-directional and parallel process, effectively solved the 360S/2 strong low, 360S/2/2 strands, low efficiency, large contraction, etc. The problem is to produce 360S/2/2 strands steadily. The post-process uses ultra-relaxed mercerizing technology to activate the accumulated elasticity.

"Resolved the ultra-fine, solved the elasticity, it is easy to say, in fact, this is a comprehensive breakthrough in the spinning, weaving, dyeing, finishing process." Li Yanling said that the realization of superfine yarn counts also needs to optimize the original cotton grade. In order to avoid the problem of large fiber damage, short piles and neps in the carding process, a low-speed carding technique for misaligned card clothing has also been developed. In order to ensure the color and durability of the color strands, the ultra-fine cheese yarn high-efficiency dyeing pretreatment auxiliaries and special treatment systems were studied, and the ultra-dark dyeing fastness control technology was applied by means of controlling the temperature change rate. In addition, the use of technologies such as low bath ratio cotton yarn dyeing, multi-layer ecological sizing, high-density high-density flexible weaving ensures stable production processes, improved production efficiency, and environmental protection .

Pure cotton high-density elastic yarn-dyed fabrics have been built step by step. "Italian light-dyed fabrics are only 300S, and we reach 360S. From the elastic effect, they only have 3% to 6%. Our products reach 18.4%.” Li Yuling said that top products must have top-level indicators.

Occupy the high end of the world fabric market

“The average fabric can only sell for US$3 per meter. If it is more than US$10, it belongs to high-grade fabrics, and our products can sell for a high price of US$80.” Yu Yongjun said that such high prices are only used by top international brands, although each The number of orders is small, but the added value of the unit product is the highest. At present, the products have been widely recognized by customers through the application of many downstream customers such as Jiangsu Zhanshi Textile Co., Ltd. and Hong Kong Lianya Textile Co., Ltd.

According to reports, after the product went on the market, it has realized the sale of high-grade pure cotton ultra-fine high-density elastic yarn-dyed fabrics of 1.5 million meters, achieving new sales income of 150 million yuan and profit of 33 million yuan. A traditional cotton textile enterprise has occupied the high end of the world fabric market through technological innovation .

Through the integration and technicalization of the integration of pure cotton ultra-fine elastic yarn-dyed fabrics in spinning, weaving, dyeing and finishing, Lianfa has mastered the accumulation of symmetry-type stress spinning and ultra-fine cheese dyeing before low damage. The core technology of independent intellectual property rights , such as processing, high-density and high-density flexible weaving and ecological accumulation combination, has applied for 13 patents, including 8 inventions, 2 utility models, and 2 software copyrights.

“The best products are only used by the top-end people, but we apply the mastery technology to the 160S and 200S products, and also create different boutiques.” Yu Yongjun admits that with the strength of the top products, Lianfa high-end cotton The ultra-fine elastic yarn-dyed fabrics have successively formed large-scale production, and the average yarn count has been significantly improved. International market feedback shows that cotton-dyed stretch fabrics are expected to become a new consumer hotspot in the context of consumer upgrades. Jiangsu Lianfa is stepping up its development of a series of products to make the “Rolls Royce” in the fabric go to the world.

Six technical highlights

Optimize the original cotton grade and key equipment components, optimize the pre-spinning process; use the baffle-type gathering siro spinning technology to design the double-slot deflector device, optimize the guiding components, equipment and process, and stably produce 360S/2 agglomeration Siro spinning yarn;

The use of the siro spinning twin-strand co-directional (ZZ捻) and enthalpy process effectively solves the problems of 360S/2 strong low, 360S/2/2 strand twisting efficiency, large shrinkage, etc., and stable production of 360S/ 2/2 strands;

The ultra-fine cheese yarn high-efficiency dyeing pretreatment auxiliaries and special treatment system were studied. The method of controlling the temperature change rate and other techniques was applied to control the rubbing fastness control technology of the deep-ditch dyeing to ensure the strong damage of the 360S/2/2 strands. At the same time, it ensures the broad spectrum, vividness and durability of the color of the color strands;

The special modifier for the surface treatment of ultra-high-purity cotton stretch yarn was developed. The high-permeability, low-viscosity and high-concentration combination pulping scheme was applied, and the sizing process of low temperature, high pressure and medium speed was applied to make the sizing rate of sizing reach 15%~ 16%, the enhancement rate is 22%~24%;

The weaving process parameters were systematically studied and preferred. Adopting small opening height, deep rear shed, equal height and low back beam, medium and upper machine tension, low weft tension and double-sided waxing, the weaving process is smooth, the number of broken ends is small, and the production efficiency is nearly 80%;

Systematic research on ultra-fine color woven fabrics using ultra-relaxing bleaching, mercerizing technology and liquid ammonia tidal cross-linking and ironing-free finishing technology, making the 360S/2/2 color strand fabric soft, smooth, silky and shiny, high elasticity, Comfortable. The elongation at break is as high as 25% or more.

Face to face

TAweekly: Lianfa can develop such a high level of fabrics. What do you think is the most fundamental reason?

Yu Yongjun: Lianfa mainly focuses on yarn-dyed fabrics, and has a complete industrial chain from cotton to garment and brand marketing. We are the world's leading manufacturer of high-grade yarn-dyed fabrics and high-end brand shirts. Yarn-dyed fabrics account for 10% of the international high-end market share, accounting for more than 20% of the domestic high-end market. Since the establishment of the factory in 1955, we have been focusing on the development of textile fabrics, which is the accumulation of our 60 years of experience. In addition, we have a sound technological innovation system to ensure that we constantly adjust the product structure. Under the situation of sluggish domestic and international markets, the company's output value, profits and tax revenue will grow steadily year after year.

TAweekly: The company's golden R&D building is very distinctive. What kind of technological innovation system is there?

Yu Yongjun: From the hardware point of view, we have a Unicom Business School, which is mainly responsible for the training of technical personnel . There are also three workstations, including academicians, post-doctoral and postgraduate students. They cooperate with Donghua University, Jiangnan University and Nantong University. Fabric library, clothing library, color yarn library, fashion creative center mainly display new patterns and new products for designers to develop and design, and receive customers to choose. There are also product design centers, technology research centers, sample centers, information technology research centers, testing centers, and pilot centers. In the United States, Italy, Japan, Hong Kong, China, we also have a product research and development center to obtain scientific information and fashion trends from the forefront of fashion. We have also established Jiangsu Lianfa International Dyeing and Finishing Research Center with the world's top 500 US Huntsman, Germany DyStar, Kekai and Hong Kong Lixin Dyeing and Finishing Dyeing and Finishing Machinery, which is the most advanced in the world. The dyeing and finishing technology and dyeing and finishing equipment have been introduced to Lianfa, making our dyeing and finishing technology at the leading level in the world.

TAweekly: How does a company have such a complete technological innovation organization and how is it managed?

Yu Yongjun: This pattern is based on the state-level enterprise technology center as the main technological innovation pattern. We rely on the management committee to use the decision-making and technical committee to provide technical support to guide the company to carry out collaborative innovation and develop technology in the field of yarn-dyed. Transformation of industrialization results. The company has a talented team with young and middle-aged students, a reasonable structure and a wide range of disciplines. Among the 3,523 employees, there are 401 technicians in the technical center. In the past three years, the company's R&D expenditures accounted for more than 3.5% of the company's sales revenue, with an average annual growth rate of 4.63%.

TAweekly: What does technology innovation bring to the company?

Yu Yongjun: Technology innovation is market-oriented, customer satisfaction is our goal. According to market changes, our new products should highlight the characteristics of fashion, fine and high-end. In the past three years, the company has developed nearly 1,000 new flower, new materials and new functional series fabrics, including new material series, protection series, high performance series, health series, beautification series, special performance series and so on. In the past three years, the total sales of new products have reached 5.50 billion yuan, and the accumulated direct new profits have reached 680 million yuan. The newly added tax revenue is 253 million yuan. In 2014, new product sales accounted for 86.24% of the company's main business income.

TAweekly: At present, the market is generally not very prosperous, how can the company respond?

Yu Yongjun: In addition to doing a good job of technological innovation, marketing model innovation is also an important aspect. Lianfa has its own unique "agile marketing" model, which is the spot sales model. The company utilizes its strong R&D and design capabilities to provide up to more than 1,000 varieties of stocks throughout the year, providing fast service without order. The general order product requires a 40-day production cycle and a minimum order quantity requirement. And we can sell as little as 1~2 meters, and the country arrives in 72 hours. The biggest advantage of this model is that it solves the problem of the clothing brand inventory. If the sales are good, you can turn the order at any time. It is the technological innovation, the adjustment of product structure and the innovative business model that enable us to go against the trend.