Costumes are an important part of a national culture. It is closely related to the geographical environment in which it is located, the level of socio-economic development and the relations among the neighboring ethnic groups. It is like a history book worn on the body, an expression embroidered on the body, Symbol, a symbol of traditional culture. Bai clothing is a materialized form of Bai culture, is a cultural symbol, Bai is an important part of traditional culture. Bai clothing is a long-term accumulation of labor by the Bai people. With the development of the Bai history, it has evolved into a unique clothing culture. It embodies the cultural mentality of the Bai people in their production and life, aesthetic taste and religious concepts. Each of these embroidery pieces and each pattern reflects the simple aesthetic thoughts and deep life philosophy of Bai people. First, the origin of Bai costumes According to archaeological data prove that as early as four thousand years ago, the Bai ancestors began to flourish in Erhai area. From Dali Cangshan, Jianchuan sea door, Binchuan Archean unearthed Neolithic sites such as stone and pottery spinning wheel and bone, horny needle, bone cone, perforation clam shell and other artifacts, confirmed the textile has emerged , People already know how to knit and weave clothes, and use clamshell and other objects as decoration. But this time the dress is very simple and rough. Second, the formation and evolution of Bai costumes Ethnic costumes in the long history of the process, and gradually formed a unique costumes. I personally think that in the development of Bai costumes, the evolution of the process, the main experience of the following stages: First, the Bronze Age. Second, the Tang Dynasty. Third, Nanzhao, Dali State period. Four, Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties. However, due to the lack of historical documents, we can only conduct a limited discussion on the development of Bai costumes in Dali in the limited related research. (A) of the Bronze Age This period is mainly created by the ancestors of the Bronze Age bronze culture. Yunnan's bronze culture in the country are more advanced. During this period, the culture in Dali district was influenced by the surrounding ethnic cultures and gradually formed the Dian culture. Dali area style of dress is also gradually formed for the later Nanzhao period Bai dress style laid the foundation. According to archeological excavations of images of characters, the ancestral people of Yunnan Bai ethnic men and women regardless of clothing, wearing a collarless collar coat, knee length; Sleeve large and short, long and elbow. Men waist belt, before a round buckle. Men and women are not wearing pants. Some men with gorgeous cloak, some still tail ornaments. Hair ornaments and headdress, the man will be bunched in his head, the subtle difference is that the bun with the ends of the band fluttered in after some bun large, some hair very high, and some hair wrapped outside Pa. The woman's hair generally drooped in the back of her head, shaped like a silver ingot, or broken up the bun, the middle of the belt, draped over the back. This dress and headdress not only with the historical records of Southwest Yi Bi: This are Bun, there is a poly record coincide, but also for the ancestors of the White ancestors of the Tang Dynasty inherited. Jianchuan Grottoes statue and Deng Chuan Deyuan wood carving Bai Jie Sheng Fei is also a Dian people wear collarless collarless coat. (Two) the earliest records of the Tang Dynasty Bai costumes is the earliest recorded in the early Tang Dynasty Leung Kin Fong's erhu. The article said: silk, linen, silk weaving things, out, silk, silk, cloth, linen. A wide range of seven inches below. Dyed with Fei silk. Men as a blanket 帔, women's cloth for the skirts, still Phi skins, head hair hair, a plate, shaped like. Unisex. It can be seen from this passage that in the early Tang Dynasty, Bai people and men in the West River Region were wearing blankets. Women wore skirts and clothes made of coarse satin, braided bunches and bare feet. (III) Nanzhao and Dali Periods During the Tang Dynasty, the Tang Dynasty of the Republic of China implemented a policy of appeasement to Yunnan. In order to curb the expansion of Tubo, Nanzhao tribes in Erhai Lake Area were united to establish the Nanzhao regime through the unification of Erhai Lake. At this point, Nanzhao regime is expanding, contradicting the court. At the same time, the political, economic and cultural center of Yunnan has been moved to the west for five hundred years. The emergence of the unified regime of Nanzhao and the integration process of multivariate tribes within the Shibei area have gradually narrowed the economic and cultural differences among various tribes and eventually converged into a new national community called Bai. Tang and Song dynasties, Nanzhao Dali territory, the silk handicraft industry developed, all luxurious clothes, with fine silk stains stained with purple silk Aya, Kam, silk sewing. Embroidery is very good due to the increase of delicate fabrics. The members of the Nanzhao and Dali kings, as well as the officials at the top level (Qingping Officer and Army General) and the dignitaries' clothing are all beautifully decorated with exquisite tiger skins and exceptionally bright Canhuan. Nanzhao Tang legend, the Song Dynasty Zhang Sheng Wen Vatican as depicted in the volume of the royal family and official costumes, made a wonderful depiction. The Nanzhao period costumes detailed records, from the Tang Dynasty official Fan Chuo's book. Man Book 8 records: its pretty, her husband all the blankets, the rest of the clothes slightly with the Han, the only sac specifically ears. Nanzhao with red damask, the remaining officials are all soap silk damask. The system (system of law) to take a piece of material, near the edge of the hand-knitted stitch, carved wood, such as Tamagotchi, real corner, the total hair in the back of a bun, that is, . Yu-chi following all moving house screening who, and then the first capsule. If the younger brother and the Fourth Army Luo Yong, then when the amount of network is a bun, may not wear capsicum angle, when the top knot bun, and Phi fur. Popular are Jiezhu foot, although Qingping officer, generals do not be ashamed of. Cao following the Department of gold to 苴 (belt). Or wait for the first successful commendation winners, not limited to all the usual women do not apply powder Dai, Suzaku hair. Avalokiteshvara for your expensive skirts (short jacket), which is still Phnom Penh square decoration. Two strands of braided hair. Ups and ears, and more pearl, gold, shellfish, sese, amber. Your servant girl also has skirts. Often Phi blankets, and to Tao silk Tao, also called the head capsule. Your Fei, purple color. Got purple, there is great merit. There are other super-special who have full Phi Polo skin (tiger skin). Followed by power, then the chest behind the Phi, while the lack of their sleeves. Again inferior, the chest was Phi, and the lack of back. This is a record about the official clothes of the Nanzhao period from kings to ministers (Qingping Officer, Army General Cao Chang) and guards (Yu Yi). Evidence in the Nanzhao map biography, Zhang Sheng Wen Vatican as volume, Jianchuan Grottoes statues, you can get a comprehensive, rich and vivid image. This part of the material is displayed, is represented by the court Nanzhao Dali State upper class clothing. The woman does not powder to Suze hair. Avalokiteshina silk mattress, Shi Jin a. To identify two rings as a bun (around the bun, now Bai female head sac), ear beads Bebe, Sese, tiger soul. Can be regarded as folk, that is, ordinary people's clothing records. In AD 800, Nanzhao presented a large-scale song and dance Nanzhao to Holy Music to the court in Tang Dynasty. The actors wear Nanzhao costumes and dress skirts on painted pictures of birds and grasses and plants, colorful and colorful, very beautiful. Dance wear Nanzhao Yi, Jiang skirts, black sac, painted leather boots, jewelry socks, plus painting half-arm. This is the artist's costumes at the time, it can be assumed that it represents the mainstream of Nanzhao clothing. Painting clothing technology is the forerunner of embroidery, from painting to embroidery, both the process of process development, but also art from simple to complex, from low to high-level evolution of the necessary way. A woven, dyed, painted with embroidery, is the Nanzhao Dali period Bai Nationality textile industry and arts and crafts vigorous development of the significant signs. Color is still there, there are some written records. Ouyang Xiu, Song Zhixin Tang Shu Nanzhao Chuan is still recorded in the still purple, active Kam. Another plus gold bullock. Gold Polo, tiger skin too. Gong Gongzhuo not back sleeve, the second stop in 衿. From these records can be inferred: Nanzhao, Dali State, Bai costumes with red and purple as the noble, the tiger skin is the most noble. Opponents often use Tiger skin as a reward. Official clothes commonly used Aki Jin sewing. Fourth, the Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties to the Republic of China Yuan Dynasty, according to Li Jing Yunnan Zhi slightly recorded, the Bai ethnic clothing for men to wear felt, vertebra. The woman does not apply powder Dai, Suzuki their hair, with the first part of the green yarn series, wrapped to save top black towel; ear gold rings, ivory wrapped arm; clothing embroidered square, with half a thin mat for the service. This shows that the Yuan Dynasty clothing and Nanzhao period are very similar. From the Ming Dynasty to the Republic of China period, the records about Bai costumes were relatively simple. At the beginning of Ming Dynasty, Jingtai's Yunnan Pictorial Books recorded that the costumes of the Bai people were the first men and women in the second-time workmanship. Although the old pro-long do not kneel, but take the time to feed. Men wear Matt Bun, the woman does not apply fat powder, Suzaku its hair, divided into green yarn, around the first line, wrapped to save the top black towel, ear gold rings, ivory wrapped arm. Clothing embroidered square, with half a thin mat for the service. Still inherit the main characteristics of women's clothes in Nanzhao Dali period. Ethnic integration in the Ming and Qing Dynasties, ethnic minority culture gradually becoming Chinese, the most prominent in the Bai women dress. In the Ming Dynasty LiYunYang Yunnan TongZhi recorded in the festival ceremonial funeral service goods such as shellfish and customs and the same, too attached to Guo, the only bell of Cang Er, white and more ethnic, vulgar and Chinese. Costumes, scholar, so there is marriage with the Han Chinese, women are also foot-binding, still Zuo Zongnong. According to the records of the imperial prefectures of Kangxi in the Qing Dynasty, men were familiar with the Mongolian buddha and covered with felts. Wang Song Yunnan Tongzhi generalizes the customs and habits of the Bai nationalities in different parts of Yunnan Province. Imitation QiMin (Han nationality), reading comprehension candidates, and people who are entangled and dressed in shorts and clothes. The most important significance of documentary records in the Ming and Qing Dynasties is that it records the costumes of ordinary people. Since the Ming Dynasty, a large number of Han immigrants have entered the Bai region, and Chinese costumes have hit the traditional Bai costumes. Since the Qing dynasty, Bai men have basically changed into standard Chinese clothing with wide-legged pants and wide-legged pants. Women's apparel and lace clothing have become the basic features. Their neckline, cuffs, lapels, hem and trousers are laced with lace. However, many places have retained the tradition of wearing silver items such as necklaces, earrings and bracelets. In summary, we can see the development of Dali Bai costumes: 1 more than four thousand years ago, the ancestors of Bai people would have weaving, sewing clothes; Bronze Age, both ancient ancestors of both white and black Collar coat, are not like pants. In the early Tang Dynasty, Bai silk industry developed handicrafts, men and women are covered with felt, women wearing a drape made skirts, disk bun, barefoot. And appeared embroidery; 3 Nanzhao, Dali period, Bai men felted, wear the cardigan clothes, the Department of belt, pull bun, wearing a sac, barefoot. The woman wore a short dress with a square frame on it as a decoration, a handkerchief and a decoration of pearl, gold, shellfish, seather, and amber. Clothes colors to red and purple are noble, the most distinguished tiger skin. Officials wear clothes made of Ayam, very gorgeous. Regardless of the government, people pay attention to color and decoration, stained, embroidery more; 4 Yuan Dynasty clothing and Nanzhao period are very similar; since the Ming Dynasty, Bai costumes by the Han influence, men wear Hanzhuang, women's clothing also took place A certain change. Can also be said that Bai's costumes can be divided into four stages of development in the Dali Bai costume history and change, although the same as the Dali Bai costumes because of the different living areas, which also shows that different regions of clothing by the locals The aesthetic, climatic, topographical, cultural, and traditional influences are significant. Bai clothing is a long-term accumulation of labor by the Bai people. With the development of the Bai history, it has evolved into a unique clothing culture. It embodies the cultural mentality of the Bai people in their production and life, aesthetic taste and religious concepts. Each of these embroidery pieces and each pattern reflects the simple aesthetic thoughts and deep life philosophy of Bai people. Bai clothing is the Bai people in the long-term production and life gradually formed. Clothing customs and their living environment, personality traits, amateur has a close relationship. In the long process of evolution, the Bai nationality costumes constantly absorb the essence of the exotic costume culture on the basis of inheriting the tradition. However, maintaining its own unique characteristics, Bai costumes have recognizable aesthetic effects and become the symbol of the Bai people.
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